The Bernina Red Train winds its way through the heart of the Swiss Alps, a vibrant red thread weaving together the snow-dusted peaks of St. Moritz, Switzerland, and the charming Italian town of Tirano. Operated by the Rhaetian Railway (RhB), this iconic journey has been immortalized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008—a recognition well-deserved for its breathtaking landscapes and masterful engineering.
The Allure and Intrigue of Planning the Perfect Ride
Planning the Bernina Express adventure felt like solving a delightful puzzle. Every detail begged consideration: panoramic versus regular cars, costs, seat reservations, and the freedom to explore stops along the way. The questions were endless, but the answer was clear—a resounding “yes” to devoting time and money to a journey that is, quite simply, magical.
A Journey of Bridges, Tunnels, and Alpine Splendor
The Bernina Express traverses a narrow-gauge railway, a marvel of engineering that meanders through 55 tunnels and soars over 196 bridges. The route sweeps through pastoral valleys, quaint towns, and rugged mountains, ascending to the dramatic Bernina Pass. Here, the verdant rolling hills transform into a serene, snow-laden expanse, and the silence of the alpine wilderness embraces you. Dubbed Europe’s most scenic railway, the Bernina journey lives up to its reputation with every turn of the track.
Boarding the Bernina: Chur to Tirano
Our journey began at Chur, where we secured tickets for window seats, hoping for the best views. The ticketing agent’s cheerful demeanor couldn’t guarantee the side of the train we’d face—seating configurations often change—but we boarded with excitement.
As the train set off, a minor hiccup had us switching seats with an elderly Californian couple who kindly shared our enthusiasm for travel. Conversation soon replaced any frustration, and we discovered shared stories, smiles, and an uncanny coincidence: we both had the same brand of selfie stick!
Climbing Through a World Transformed
The train pulled away slowly, and the world outside began to change. Green fields rolled past, giving way to dense forests, icy streams, and a brilliant white wilderness. The ascent was mesmerizing as the train spiraled upward, crossing iconic landmarks like the Landwasser Viaduct—a graceful, arched marvel suspended over a yawning valley—and the playful Brusio Circular Viaduct, where the train loops back on itself like a toy in motion.
At every landmark, passengers leaned eagerly toward windows, cameras poised. A kind announcement from the train driver invited us to take in these postcard-perfect scenes. Though my selfie stick’s remote had lost its charge, the generous Californian gentleman offered his spare remote, a small act of kindness that turned a minor inconvenience into a fond memory.
Arrival in Tirano: A Slice of Italy
After nearly four and a half hours of alpine wonder, the train rolled into Tirano, a quaint Italian town nestled in a picturesque valley. We spent two leisurely hours exploring cobblestone streets and savoring pizza at Lo Scrocchiaro Pizzeria—a divine meal that felt like a celebration of the journey.
The Return: Quiet Reflection Amid Majestic Views
The return journey offered a quieter appreciation of the same stunning landscapes. The train, now nearly empty, allowed us the freedom to choose our seats and settle into the rhythm of the ride. The grandeur of glaciers, sparkling lakes, and towering peaks still impressed, though our fatigue dulled the impulse to document every moment.
A Journey to Remember
When we returned to Chur, the Bernina Express had left an indelible mark. It wasn’t just the scenery or the engineering marvels that made the trip extraordinary—the moments of connection, the unexpected kindness, and the feeling of being immersed in something greater than yourself.
While I’m content to let the Bernina Express remain a once-in-a-lifetime experience, its memory will forever be a cherished chapter in my travel adventures—a reminder of the beauty of the world and the joy of exploring it.
